What to do and Where to Stay on Lake Malawi

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Africa’s full of romanticised tourist-board names, and although we wouldn’t exactly describe Lake Malawi as the “Lake of Stars”, it’d be hard to come up with something equally pithy that describes just how beguiling it can be. Forested and terraced hills drop into implausibly turquoise waters: above fishermen explore in dugout canoes, below an astonishing array of fish create glistening shoals. Along the shoreline children wave happily at passing visitors and elderly gentlemen cycle through smartly built villages.

From our own experience, we felt that to make the most of the scenery at Lake Malawi it’s better to visit at a time when the sun’s likely to be out, but even when it’s cloudy, the laid-back charm of the lakeshore makes this one of the most delightful places to visit in Africa. Worth a special mention is Likoma island, home to Africa’s largest cathedral and the wonderful Kaya Mawa lodge. A visit here feels like stepping back into another, gentler, century, and a visit to hear the singing in the cathedral on Sunday is highly recommended.